Surfing! The art of riding waves, a means of self expression, exercise, life style, sport, or playful frolic in the largest moving force on earth. It is loved by some, misunderstood by most, and disliked by others. One thing is certain, it takes over some peoples lives, overtakes their souls, and takes them on the ride of their life.
It is not the gear that makes the surfer. Rather the spirit. It is a sense of being that is a gift to be treasured and enjoyed. It really has nothing to do with current trends or technology, It is about involvement with the ocean, waves, winds,and all the other incredible properties the beach has to offer us.
I once viewed a photo of a young man from some remote island. He was clad in a makeshift loin cloth, knees bent, arms outstretched for balance, his youthful dark skinned body glistened in the sun as he rode a door that he had scavanged off the beach. Perfectly positioned, the head high paper thin wave curled over his shoulders as he side slipped towards the shore. There are no words to explain how this photo made me feel. Sometimes I wonder if his mother read him the riot act for taking the front door off the frame at their house that morning he saw perfect surf. If any of you have this photo, send me a copy wouldya. It says much of what surfing is !